Ingredient

Vanilla

Vanilla is the unmistakable, uplifting and sweet scent we all know and love.

What is vanilla?

Vanilla beans (pods) are the fruits of the orchid Vanilla planifolia. Centuries ago, one could only purchase vanilla from Mexico, as the flowers required a local bee to pollinate and grow the precious pod. Thanks to the discovery of a hand pollination technique in 1841, orchids can now be cultivated in most tropical areas close to the equator. This step requires crucial know-how and must be carried out a few hours after the flower opens; otherwise, it wilts.

Each blossom produces a single bean that is normally harvested after eight or nine months and then passes through a complex curing process before resembling the black-brown fragrant spice we all know. This process usually involves four steps: soaking in hot water, sweating in a warm environment, drying for a few weeks, and conditioning (packing in boxes) to develop flavours.

What are the benefits of vanilla?

• It has a sweet fragrance with uplifting, de-stressing and aphrodisiac qualities.
• The sugars in vanilla act as humectants, which prevents moisture loss. 
• The spice is soothing, softening and antibacterial for the skin.
• Its main aromatic compound, vanillin, is an antioxidant that helps the skin to stay firm and radiant.

Tradin’ Crises Stories

Since Madagascar, the world's first vanilla producer, stopped regulating vanilla prices in the 1990s, its trade has seen ups and downs. The latest struggles began in 2012 when very low harvests made demand higher than supply. Since vanilla is a rather rare natural delicacy that cannot be rushed, the situation quickly snowballed into crazy price increases (over 100%), poor quality and crime.

In 2016, the situation in Uganda (where we buy our pods) became critical and was reported to us in an article by Lulu, owner of the Ndali farm. Resellers and agents working on commission began buying vanilla that was not even cured properly yet. Vanilla pods must reach maturity and undergo the full curing process to obtain all the notes of their wonderful taste and smell and to avoid mould. During price crises, crops are sold far too early and pods can even be stolen from the fields before they're ripe. Farmers try to expand their crops to meet demand, and governments implement drastic measures. Eventually, when things finally calm down, farmers find themselves with too much production and prices drop tragically, as has been the case since 2019.

Where does Lush source vanilla?

We love natural vanilla so much that we couldn't stop using it despite the market’s turmoil. Thanks to our dedicated team of creative buyers, we found solutions year after year and month after month. Find more information on each source in the description of the main vanilla ingredients we use:

Vanilla Absolute, a powerful extract found in perfumery and skin-soothing cosmetics.

Vanilla Pod Infusion, made in-house from beans soaked in hot water.

Vanilla Pod Extract, for which humectant propylene glycol serves as a carrier.

Want to dive straight into our range of vanilla-scented products? They're ready for you.